When Africa steals your heart…
Ok, my first ever travel blog, so be gentle with me people 🙂
I’ve decided to start with our most recent travels and then go back over previous trips.
So…we’ve been back from Marrakech for about 2 months now and for roughly the last 2 months I’ve been wishing we were back there!
This city and country have stolen my heart. This has to be the most colourful, vibrant and lively place I think we’ve visited so far.
From the minute we arrived at Marrakech Airport it felt like we had walked into a scene from Aladdin. In fact, I think they were the exact words I put in a text to my sister…’OMG it’s like a real life scene from Disney’s Aladdin’. The child in me was very impressed with this!
You’re hit by the architecture when you arrive in Marrakech, it was exactly what I expected and more. I have a bit of a thing for architecture (FYI) which is probably why a lot of my pictures are of places as opposed to people.
It’s one of the many things I love about travelling the world, how almost everywhere you go the buildings and designs are different. The reasons for the different designs fascinates me. Different climates, needs, materials, designers and regional styles all help to make every place unique!
Anyway, went off on a bit of a tangent there for a minute! Back to this beautiful city.
Marrakech is full of culture, colour, endless ways to explore and great cuisine. From getting lost in the souks (trust me this is a real thing), to relaxing in rooftop bars over looking the Jemaa El-Fna, visiting the many beautiful public gardens and Palaces to enjoying some Shisha and watching the beautiful sunset behind the Koutoubia Mosque. There is something for everyone here.
Here are my absolute musts when visiting Marrakech:
Jemaa El-Fna – is worth a visit both during the day and at night. This is the large central market inside the Medina. By day mainly tourists are out and about sampling the many offerings Marrakech has to offer in the market. By night this place comes alive and is arguably more beautiful than during the day. The locals appear to come out during the evening and if you are looking to take in some culture and enjoy people watching I would highly recommend finding yourself a rooftop bar or restaurant and spending the evening people watching with a tagine and a glass of wine or a Moroccan Tea (this stuff is incredible, very sweet but very tasty). This is a great way to spend an evening in Marrakech.
Le Jardin Secret – is great because it is tranquil and has hidden treasures as well as a tower that overlooks the whole garden and a rooftop cafe that you can relax in the sunshine and take in the views, a great place to enjoy a good book! This garden is in two stages so make sure you venture into the second garden which is much bigger and houses the tower and cafe for spectacular views.
The Souks – are a must! They are great fun..if you like getting lost that is. Once you venture in they literally are a labyrinth of small shops and traders offering everything from clothing, spices, tagine pots and cookware, locally made leather goods, rugs and carpets (magic maybe), a range of argan oil products and decorative Moroccan lanterns. There was a point at which I thought we would never get out but that is all part of the fun…just head for the sunlight! 🙂
FYI – there are some live animals sold here (terrapins, gold fish and bats etc). If this is not for you just be aware and bear in mind you may come across it. Also be prepared to be approached at most shops, don’t feel bad for saying no and moving on. Don’t feel as if you need to visit each shop and when you do, do not be afraid to haggle, it is part of the culture in Marrakech and is almost tradition. Never pay the price you are initially offered, these will be inflated. Trust me, don’t be afraid to ask for a deal! Also be cautious of mopeds and bikes. These narrow alleys are barely wide enough for them but locals and deliveries will squeeze them through so always be ready to move out of the way.
Koutoubia Mosque – you are not able to go inside this mosque but the sheer beauty of it from the outside is all you will need. In the centre of Marrakech with beautiful gardens this Mosque is stunning during the day and at night. Seeing the sun setting behind this stunning building with the Atlas Mountains in the distance is something special.
Bahia Palace – is considered one of the great Palaces of Morocco this is worth a visit. Fantastic value to get in, tours are available but the layout means you follow the same route as the organised tours so this is a great way to save some money. With information plaques throughout we felt there wasn’t a need to join a tour at an extra cost. Beautiful architecture and history in this Palace makes it a must visit. A very peaceful place to spend your time away from the hustle and bustle of the busy city with the most beautiful and bright stained glass I think I have seen anywhere on our travels so far.
Le Jardin Majorelle – is one of the most enchanting and mysterious gardens in Morocco. Bought by Yves Saint Laurent and restored for public use this is a must visit when in Marrakech, whether you love visiting public gardens or like me, love taking pictures full of colour. There is a reason the blue in this garden is now an official shade of blue (Majorelle Blue). It is the most vibrant and striking colour you are likely to come across. Entrance to the gardens does not break the bank and there is a cafe inside that means you have the opportunity to dine in pretty impressive, colourful surroundings.
Hot Air Balloon – I can not recommend this enough. THIS IS AN ABSOLUTE MUST!! A once in a lifetime thing that given the opportunity everyone should be able to experience.
We opted for a flight over the foothills of the Atlas Mountains which was an experience of a lifetime. This is an early start but we felt like it was the perfect time of day to do it (sunrise, but you also have the choice of daytime and sunset flights too). My husband and I have been lucky enough to experience a host of different ‘tourist attractions’ during our travels, but a hot air balloon is the one thing that so far has escaped us. Being able to witness a sunrise over the Atlas Mountains while taking in the views in a hot air balloon is one thing I will never forget.
This was an excursion that was great value for money, and if I could recommend anything, book it up before you go! I imagine during the summer there is considerably less availability, we visited Marrakech in February so there was space but this is something you wouldn’t want to miss out on if you could avoid it. With a Berber (local Moroccan village) breakfast included after the flight and a camel ride, this is half a day out of the city centre well spent.
Riads (Moroccan Guest Houses) – are traditionally family homes or palaces, today Riads are used as hotels and are something pretty special! I had always wanted to stay in a Riad, they just always looked so beautiful and unique and that is exactly what they are. Two or three story buildings built around a central courtyard with a fountain or water feature make these buildings very relaxing and a real treat to stay in.
As soon as you walk in you are hit by how cool and tranquil these places are. The layout is genius and of the Riads we visited in Morocco all are peaceful, luxurious and surprisingly spacious. A large number of Riad’s have rooftop/terrace restaurants and bars and many have spas where you can unwind and enjoy a traditional Moroccan Hammam.
Rooftop Bars – on all four sides of Jemaa El-Fna you will find rooftop bars and restaurants overlooking the central markets. Day or night these are well worth a visit. There are plenty to choose from in terms of cuisine, budget and views. If you only have the time for one visit I would have to say make sure you go at night. As I said before, this place comes alive at night and it’s the perfect place to people watch and enjoy an evening relaxing while watching the goings on below.
These are the particular ones we sampled…and thoroughly enjoyed!!
El-Fenn – set on the roof of a Riad unlike any other this place was a gem of a find that if I’m honest I wish we’d have found earlier on in the week. Beautifully decorated, aimed at relaxing with a drink in the sunshine and stunning surroundings, this place has a selection of seating options (I appreciate that statement might sound a bit strange) but what I mean by this is as well as table and chairs, there are sun loungers and even giant sofa style seating areas you can lay back in, relax and enjoy one (or two) of their many cocktails on offer. If you visit no others while in Marrakesh, make sure this rooftop bar is the one you do!
Nomad – is set just outside the souks over looking the carpet selling section of the market this is a great place for tasty food and a more intimate feel. With a handful of tables spread across two floors this place has a lot to offer in terms of views. The menu choice is good, traditional Moroccan offerings in the main, great value and easy on the wallet! We visited during the day but Nomad also looks amazing at night. Note: there are signs overhead for NOMAD inside the souk, if you find yourself lost and struggling to find a way out, follow these signs because you know they will lead you to sunlight!
Shisha – this is a bit of fun and a must in a Country like Morocco. There are plenty of bars to choose from if you’d like to try Shisha, find somewhere you are comfortable…maybe with a view where you can relax and enjoy! If you’ve tried it before you know what you’re doing 🙂
Having never smoked in my life, this for me was great fun. Unfortunately it was my most dreaded flavour (aniseed) but absolutely worth it. There are other flavours to choose from, it just depends what bar you decide to go to and what their selection is, may be something to bear in mind.
If nothing else it’s a great photo opportunity. And taking photos is what I love!! 🙂
Hints & Tips…
Morocco’s currency – is Moroccan Dirham which is a closed currency so you won’t be able to exchange money before you arrive in the country. You can however once you are through the other side of arrivals. Change up enough to get you started but remember that the exchange rate here is higher so consider withdrawing cash from banks during your stay. Keep the receipt from your initial airport exchange and you can convert anything you have left back before you leave the airport to go home.
Marrakech Airport (RAK) – does not accept the digital boarding passes we have all come to love on our phones, so make sure you ask your hotel to print your boarding passes before you leave for the airport!
Mobile Data – be aware that Morocco is not a country included in many bolt-on travel plans from the UK mobile providers, so make sure you switch data roaming off before the plane lands and picks up a Moroccan network!
In a weird way not having data and not having full use of your phone for a week is actually quite nice. But if this isn’t your thing don’t fret. After you’ve collected your Dirhams, head to the purple stand called INWI in arrivals, here you can buy a SIM card for next to nothing with a choice of data amounts (we paid €15 or 150 Moroccan Dirhams for 10gb of data, which was plenty). They will even put the SIM card in and set everything up for you so you have full use of your phone while you’re in Morocco!
For all travel related hints and tips, click on my Handy Hints and Travel Tips page, no matter your destination!
Do’s & Don’ts
DO – Make sure ladies you take some light scarves with you. Great to have in your bag for the evenings when it gets a bit chilly and also great for those times when you are required to have your shoulders covered.
DO – Take a lightweight jacket that you can carry with you. Again, more for the purpose of respecting religion more than anything else.
DO – Expect to be approached when you are in the souks and markets. It’s ok to say ‘no thank you’ and keep walking, no one will get offended I promise.
DO – Have fun haggling, it’s part of the culture!
DO – Opt for the open top bus. We do this in every city we visit. It is a great way to quickly get your bearings and helps you decide which aspects you’d like to do and which you’re not as fussed about. Do a lap of the route first and narrow down your favourite stops. Depending on how long you are visiting for, purchase a 2-day pass for example and use the map to figure out in what order you’d like to do things. Put them in to categories, things in the north or the south of the city for example so you make sure you manage to see everything you’d like to and don’t lose precious sightseeing time on getting from one place to another. Cram as much as you can into your 2/3 day pass, by using the bus all your travel is already paid for! Even use it in the evening to get yourself to a restaurant that you may have seen or read about that would ordinarily be a taxi ride away! Note: if you purchase your bus tickets online you will save 10%.
DON’T – Forget to take some socks for the evenings. The tiled/marble floors can get a bit cold at night when the temperature drops!
DON’T – Drink water from the tap and take ice cubes out of drinks if you can. Everywhere you go they will serve you bottled water so this is easy to avoid.
DON’T – Take directions from people or (be too obvious) taking pictures of the inside/outside of people’s shops or stalls. You will be asked to pay for the pictures or for accepting someone’s help by taking directions, trust your tourist map or good old google maps on your phone (now you have your Moroccan SIM card).
DON’T – Jump straight into a taxi. We were advised to not get in a taxi without a working meter. However, good luck finding a taxi in Marrakech with a working meter! Therefore, don’t accept the first offer from a taxi driver, haggle with him/her before you get in the car. Getting around this city does not need to be expensive at all. Most things are in walking distance of the centre so if you’re happy to walk, enjoy strolling in the sunshine…it’s free!
DON’T – Be overly affectionate in public, don’t forget that you are in a Muslim country.
DON’T – Worry that in the Riads you’ll be asked to leave your room key whenever you leave. I think it’s fair to say that for most of us we are used to walking out with a key card in our pocket/bag and thinking nothing of it. Having to hand the key in is totally normal and there is always someone around whatever time of day or night to hand you back your key.
DON’T – Expect a perfectly silent nights sleep in a Riad. The nature of the design and layout of these buildings mean they can be pretty noisy. You will hear people walking around, doors closing that are nowhere near you and muffled conversations, noise travels quite a way in these buildings. Maybe take some earplugs if you are a light sleeper.
So to summarise Marrakech then…a beautiful, vibrant city full of colour and life. Great food, plenty of culture, plenty to see, do and experience. All year round sunshine and a good destination for some winter sun! If or when the opportunity arises for you to visit this incredible city, take it! Marrakesh and Morocco will not disappoint!!
If you’re planning a trip to Morocco, why not see what the stunning blue city of Chefchaouen has to offer in my Chefchaouen blog – 100% worth the 7 hour drive…trust me!!
Thank you for taking the time to read my first blog, if you like what you’ve read so far please subscribe below and give me a follow on Instagram for the latest.
Thank you
Claire x
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