The Blue Pearl of Morocco
They say a picture says a thousand words, so based on the pictures you can take in this place, do I even need to write anything in order to understand just how amazing Chefchaouen is?!?!
Of course I do!!! So I absolutely will…
I don’t know if anyone else is the same, but my bucket list seems to grow almost by the day, Chefchaouen has been on mine for a while and I will always be grateful for being able to visit, explore and experience this unique place.
Chefchaouen is a blue-washed mountain city that feels like it’s in a world of its own. Nestled on a mountain side miles from anywhere, you’d imagine that on the drive there, you’d see it in the distance getting closer the longer you drive. In fact it’s that hidden that we were no more than 10 minutes away before we actually caught a glimpse of it, then all of a sudden you’re there!
We split a recent trip to Morocco between here and Marrakech. If you are considering Morocco anytime soon please take the time to have a look over this and factor in some time to visit Chefchaouen if you can – you won’t regret the detour!
We hired a car from Marrakech airport and drove to Chefchaouen, when I say we, on this occasion my husband was kind enough to do all the driving. Driving in Morocco is…how can I put it…an experience! And as hubby used to drive long distances for a living, we pulled on his skill set here as the rules of the road seemed to be pretty few and far between.
Car hire in Marrakech was cheap and easy to organise so if you do decide to do a multi city break when in Morocco, this will not break the bank and will ultimately give you more choice and freedom with your plans.
The drive to Chefchaouen was great and actually, a real eye opener. The journey enables you to take in the real Morocco, and sights you wouldn’t otherwise be able to see in a city centre. You drive through remote villages, some larger towns, many police check points and the closer you get to Chefchaouen, over mountain roads with some wicked views.
But once you get there, oh my god! Just take a look at some of these pictures.
In the big scheme of things, Chefchaouen has only relatively recently opened it’s arms to ‘tourism’ and visitors. Which means that because of this, everything you need can now be found in the centre, you won’t need to venture too far and you won’t get approached like you would do in Marrakech, you are left alone and can walk freely at your own pace. There is no haggling here either, the price is the price and generally it’s the best price.
We spent two nights here and every time we left or walked back to our Riad I am convinced we took a slightly different route. The narrow, winding streets are enchanting, beautiful and very easy to get lost in. But what a place to get lost! It’s almost worth getting lost so you can take it all in!
It’s very affordable to eat and drink in Chefchaouen and there are some great restaurants to choose from, plenty overlooking the main central square with rooftop/terrace seating which again is great for the evenings.
Talking of evenings, here you are 7 hours north of Marrakech so the temperature during the day is lower and at night significantly lower so make sure you pack some warmer clothes and a jacket for when you venture out in the evenings (if you’ve read my Marrakech blog…ladies, this is where you’ll be grateful you packed those scarves)!
With a choice of historical places to visit and plenty of shops and stalls to enjoy wondering through in the Medina, you will thoroughly enjoy your time in the calming environment of Chefchaouen.
How to spend your time in Chefchaouen
Wandering – this may sound simple but honestly, you can spend hours just wandering through the lanes and taking in this place, the colours and the atmosphere. Look down every alleyway, there are hidden treasures around every turn and each time you think you’ve seen the most beautiful thing this place has to offer, the next little lane or alley presents you with something more spectacular than the last!
Bazaars – full of local arts & crafts, clothing, leather goods, souvenirs and local delicacies, the bazaars are great fun. Keep your eyes peeled for the hidden wood and leather workshops dotted throughout, you can watch the craftsman at work and if you would like to take pictures…they won’t ask you for money!
Souk – Chefchaouen boasts a mesmerising traditional souk that you can easily spend hours exploring at a chilled out pace. If your travel plans allow it, visiting on a Monday or Thursday means you can experience a more traditional feel as these are the local’s market days.
Ras El Maa – Chefchaouen’s beautiful waterfall just on the edge of the Medina. The water gushes straight off the side of the mountain feeding the whole city, it’s a great sight and provides stunning views looking back across this beautiful blue city. We took a wonder up to to Ras El Maa which wasn’t much of a walk at all, about 10 minutes maximum (of course this depends on where your Riad/accommodation is) but I would recommend going and having a look.
Kasbah – ridiculously reasonable in terms of admission fees to enter, this fortified building in the centre houses a museum where you can learn more about it’s history. Built around an Andalusian style garden/courtyard, it’s a great place to wander, discover and take in your surroundings. Once inside it’s like you are somewhere else, almost no sign of blue! Make sure to take a trip up to the top of the tower where you are greeted by stunning views of Chefchaouen and beyond.
If you are not keen on walking or climbing (slight) inclines, be aware that this city is built on the side of a mountain so there is quite a bit of walking and a lot of up and down stairs to reach places. I felt the need to include this because in the days following us leaving Chefchaouen, my legs knew they’d had a workout! Note: Because of this, wheelchair access etc is non existent so may not be ideal for anyone in a wheelchair, anyone with walking or respiratory problems, children or the elderly.
Restaurants
With only having two nights in Chefchaouen we didn’t have the opportunity to try as many places as we would have liked but enjoyed what we did have whilst here.
If you’re looking for variety, head to the main square, day or night. There’s a wider selection of cuisines, all budget friendly and at night the main square is full of fun and activity, plus these restaurants are open later. I also heard whispers there were a couple of restaurants here that served alcohol…if anyone is interested 😉
Aladdin Restaurant – it’s all in the title!! This enchanting place is decorated like something out of Aladdin. Disney lovers will be in their element here!!
When it comes to seating there is plenty to choose from, indoor, outdoor, terrace. You name it you are likely to have a choice of it here! Typically for us, we headed for the rooftop, after what seemed like six flights of stairs later you arrive at the top to unbiased views of the busy square below in one direction, a panoramic views of the hills above in the other.
We both opted for a three course set menu which set us back a grand total of £7.50 each! Great value for money and in my opinion, this was the best place for traditional Moroccan couscous. I would recommend Aladdin if nothing else, just for that one dish!
Cafe Clock – rated Chefchaouen’s number one restaurant and although it was bloody freezing the evening we visited, we insisted (of course) on eating on the roof terrace. To find Cafe Clock you will need to use google maps, it is tucked away in with narrow streets but a real treat once you do find it.
The food was amazing quality, a little bit different and with a few more alternatives to traditional Moroccan cuisine, great for anyone looking for a bit of a selection. The Moroccan Tea here is also the best we had tasted! If you visit, you must try it!
FYI – if you love cooking and would like to learn more about traditional Moroccan food, check out Cafe Clocks cooking classes.
We spent two nights in Chefchaouen as part of a multi-city break. Our days were pretty jam packed so if you’re happy with an early start and a long day then you will be able to explore, enjoy and take in all the essentials this great place has to offer in a two day break. If you’d rather take your time then three days will probably be sufficient I would say.
For all travel related hints and tips, click on my Handy Hints and Travel Tips page, no matter your destination!
Hints & Tips…
Parking – as you can imagine, parking is not easy in Chefchaouen and there isn’t very much of it. If you do decide to hire a car to get here, when you arrive head straight for the centre (if you can put it in your Sat Nav, search for Hotel Parador), there is a small, manned parking area here. You will have to pay but it’s not expensive and this is the closest you can get by a car.
Directions – when you first arrive, trying to find where your Riad is can seem a bit overwhelming, it’s nestled somewhere in the narrow streets is the only conclusion you’re likely to arrive at. So, we had to go against our own advice and ask for help with directions to our Riad when we arrived…which yes we had to pay for, but in this instance was £4 well spent! 🙂
Do’s & Dont’s
DO – Make sure you pack some relatively sturdy shoes for the amount of walking you will be doing. Flip flops or sandals won’t quite cut it here on the uneven surfaces, many stairs and inclines.
DO – Be totally prepared for a lot of walking and tired legs! 🙂
DO – Be prepared for the odd smell. The drainage systems are not what you may be used to, coupled with the fact this place is in the middle of nowhere on the side of a mountain and many many years old. I’m not talking anything horrible (nothing to worry about and certainly nothing to put anyone off) but be aware that you may notice the odd slight smell from your bathroom. This is normal here.
DO – Make sure you download plenty of podcasts if you do decided to drive to Chefchaouen. Podcasts are a great way of making the time disappear quickly on a long drive and it will feel even longer with only radio stations you won’t be able to understand!
DO – Return your hire car clean and with a full tank of fuel. You will be charged if not.
DO – Make sure if you hire a car that you take a video of the condition before you sign any paperwork. Do a video all around the car and make sure you zoom in on anything you notice. Also make sure you take a photo of the mileage just before you drive away.
DON’T – Expect to easily be able to find an alcoholic drink in Chefchaouen.
DON’T – Be surprised by people asking you if you smoke, these are the only people in Chefchaouen that will approach you. Whether you say yes or no you will be asked if you would like some hash. A simple no and they will move on and leave you alone.
DON’T – Be surprised by the number of police check points if you do drive to Chefchaouen. There are two types so approach slowly, the signs will tell you if you need to slow down through them or if you need to stop. We passed through a large number and were not stopped once.
So to summarise Chefchaouen then…it’s hard not to be biased in any way because this place had been high on my bucket list and I was soooo excited to go here, but honestly, Chefchaouen in unlike anywhere else I’ve been (so far)! With breathtaking views around every corner, this city truly is enchanting. The people of Chefchaouen are lovely, and very accommodating of tourists. There is nothing negative to say about this picturesque, unique part of the world. If you love photography and exploring unusual places, Chefchaouen is for you. Go get it booked up!!
If you’re considering a multi-trip holiday to Morocco, why not see what the vibrant city of Marrakech has to offer in my Marrakech blog . These two places compliment each other very well!
Thank you for taking the time to read my blog, I hope it’s been useful 🙂 If you’d like to read more and keep up to date with my blogs, please subscribe below and give me a follow on instagram for the latest.
Thank you.
Claire x
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